Canberra's best selling wood heater. The Turbo 10 utilises the power of natural convection to heat an area up to 204 sq metres. The high mass furnace is lined.

1. Turbo Heaters For Garage

I want to install a free-standing wood heater and flue in my house. However, I need some prior advice about the ideal place to put it. I live in a small 3 bedroom (govvie) house in Tuggers, circa mid 1980s. This means that it has those strange antiquated things, ‘walls’, which divide the lounge, kitchen/dining areas and hall leading to the bedrooms. It has pretty decent roof insulation but no wall insulation. My lounge is already a difficult room to furnish, as it is both small and an L-shape, with the longest side being a glass sliding door. You also have to walk through the room to get to the rest of the house, which makes the long bit of the ‘L’ very narrow.

Does anyone know if there is some kind of design consultancy service (given that wood heaters are kind of out of fashion with the green police) that could help me on the ideal place to put a wood heater? Internet sites of shops selling wood heaters seem to provide info on how big a heater to get, but not where to put it. I guess that’s because newer homes are more open plan and would have greater design flexibility. Thanks in advance guys. Before anyone gets cranky about the fact that I want a wood heater in the (gasp!) Tuggeranong valley, I hasten to add that having a wood heater is going to be a significant heating improvement on the (two) IXL electric wall heaters I have at present. There is no gas line in my street so gas heating is not an option.

Further, I understand that wood heaters are now very efficient and that practically all dodgy emissions are burned up before going up the flue, which is a plus for air quality and means you save on wood. I also understand that burning wood is a sustainable and green form of heating, and I believe that you can also burn wood pellets. Yes, I am probably a hippy at heart.

(Just saying.). Creativecanberran said: I for one think they that if they go ahead with having a wood heater installed, that they and their family should be barred from having any access to ACT Health facilities and hospitals. Ditto with anybody that drives around in a motorvehicle, emitting particulates, carbon monoxide and nitrous oxides as they go. No healthcare for them, either.

Oh, and anybody who uses mains electricity, thereby being responsible for the burning of coal, which emits vast quantities of noxious substances into the atmosphere – some of them radioactive – none of them should be allowed any healthcare either. Speak to the owner (can’t recall his name) at Fyshwick Home & Heating. He’ll be able to advise you on the best gas/wood options available to you. If you need installers he’ll have a few tips for you as well.

We just had the fireplace in our 50s place reinstated after our original plans to install a double-sided gas heater became too expensive from a cost/benefit pov. Especially as we will be having reverse cycle heating/cooling throughout the house anyway. I expect we’ll use our fireplace only a few times a year. Miz said: Thanks Vet and others for practical comments – interesting comments about the Turbo 10, AG recommended it too. I will keep my eye out. Anyone know where these might be available?

PS I have no issues with chopping/splitting. I had a wood fire at a rental the first year I moved back to Canberra, and it was awesome. Wonderful heat and I find wood splitting therapeutic (like weeding). I already have a splitter. Hi miz planning to do the same (,and not interested in negative responders so respectfully, y’all can go take a hike ) I am now proud owner of secondhand unit which I hear has to have compliance late and then it will cost $1200 to install- have been out of town for 8 years ha ha it has turned into the nanny state in the meantime here?

I have a fairly old 2nd hand Turbo 10 tiled wood burner and the way its going I think the Cold Air isnt entering the firebox properly. I remember seeing advertising material for these and they showed how air was circulated around the firebox as a 'preheater' before being burnt. I have checked the top damper to ensure its opening and I dont think the chimney is restricted because with the door open, the fire picks up straight away. I have looked around the net, checked installers who sold similar but no one now has any details of this particular style. On the right hand side when facing the fire, there is a small lever that connects to rod that goes under the heater but to where and does exactly I dont know but moving it doesnt seem to make any difference and it weighs a ton to pull about anyway and certainly not this time of year when the heater is needed. With half way decent wood it should burn hot enough to melt the paint off the wall but currently its flat out defrosting Ice Cream.

I would appreciate any info on this heater. Gordon, Apologies for re-opening this thread. If you haven't already sorted it, I have a few ideas that might help. I have found that ash accumulates in the secondary combustion chamber.

This is the chamber above the fire pit. When you open the door and look up there is a grate full of holes. It is held in place by a couple of twitches of wire. Cut them with some side cutters then you can scrape the ash out of the chamber. Wire the grate back into place and you are good to go. Also, it helps to clean this grate from time to time, just give it a brush when the burner is cold. That will remove any ash buildup there.

Turbo Heaters For Garage

Failing all that, I do have the original operating manual. I could scan a page or two that has the adjustment for the 'Set and Forget' mechanism. Cheers, Geebs. I had forgotten all about this post but thanks for the update. I still have the Turbo but its now fast approaching the end of its life with the sliding Top damper rod rusting/burnt thru and the top chamber you mention has buckled and is now very distorted and split. I did think that plate was welded to the upper case of the heater and not removable as you describe. I would still like to see the info on the bottom air control though and would be gratefull for a copy if you scan it.

I will PM you with my email address if thats satifactory. Pkaus, this heater to put it bluntly is totally stuffed now and desperately needs replacement ASAP!! I feel at times that its not drawing properly, particularly if the wood is too big or not thoroughly dried out as it can takes ages sometimes to get burning but considering its condition, I am happy it burns at all. Like it or not I will have to decide about what to replace it (heating) with in the not too distant future, a situation I am not looking forward to. From dredging up what I remember of the diagram, finding and doing anything to the vents wont be an easy job. Gordon, Apologies for re-opening this thread. If you haven't already sorted it, I have a few ideas that might help.

I have found that ash accumulates in the secondary combustion chamber. This is the chamber above the fire pit.

When you open the door and look up there is a grate full of holes. It is held in place by a couple of twitches of wire. Cut them with some side cutters then you can scrape the ash out of the chamber. Wire the grate back into place and you are good to go. Also, it helps to clean this grate from time to time, just give it a brush when the burner is cold. That will remove any ash buildup there. Failing all that, I do have the original operating manual.

I could scan a page or two that has the adjustment for the 'Set and Forget' mechanism. Cheers, Geebs. Inquisitive, I am still using that Turbo 4 years later and its getting older and more decrepit every day but its still functioning.

I never tried to fix anything eventually as its too heavy to go pushing about without assistance. I can tell you the top damper is a pivoted roughly circular plate that partially blocks off the chimney, forcing the air flow around the top baffle which increases the metal area to be heated and passed into the room. This upper damper cant be fully closed or it would choke the fire but its movement allows you to control the burn. I havent a clue where the bottom damper is located but if you bring the side lever 'FORWARD' ie towards you then it will slow the fire down but I doubt now mine is working that brilliantly. I believe the Turbo relies a lot on the tiles mounted on the sides for heat dissipation, even more so those not fitted with a fan. I know it likes dry wood as does any heater but I have found even old railway sleepers dont burn as well as I thought they should yet others have burnt well and left little ash behind.

I wondered if they build the outer case first and then 'insert' and secure by welding the upper baffle to either the top or back plate which makes it a major exercise in trying to repair it. Make sure your chimney is in good condition and not obstructed in any way as that affects the heater too. Have Fun.and wish it was a balmy tropical day like in the mid 20's and not sleeting as it is now. Respironics omnilab advanced service manual.