• 1974 Ford Courier Repair Manual

I have for sale a green 1974 Ford Courier. $1400 or best offer! If you know anything about these trucks they are just awesome! Super fun to drive. FORD TOURNEO COURIER / TRANSIT COURIER Owner's Manual. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, stored in a retrieval system or translated into any language in any form by any means without our written permission. '1974 Truck Shop Manual Courier' Written for Ford dealership mechanics, this factory-published original manual shows you how to work on your vehicle.

( first posted 7/18/2012) Really old Toyota pickups are as common here as back-yard chickens. In fact, they’ve become an icon of the whole genre, and it’s a status symbol to have an ancient Hi-Lux in your driveway, even if it’s only used twice a year to haul some compost for the garden or a batch of fresh chicken litter. It’s a bit like keeping back-yard chickens around after they’ve stopped laying eggs; in fact,. Now the Toyotas have earned their seemingly infinite low-stress retirement, but the question is: what if I can’t find a suitably-old Hi-Lux? Am I going to be a social outcast? No, the answer is to dig up an old Ford Courier.

Given how many there are still around, and the rude health they seem to enjoy, the question is only: were the Mazda-built Couriers any less durable than the Toyotas? Its common knowledge that Ford Couriers were built by Mazda, essentially the B-Series with a Ford F100 mini-me grille, and a few other changes.

And the Mazda’s will get their own due respect here in good time. But just to establish the pedigree, here’s proof that Mazda had some experience building pickups before they got the Ford job. The B-Series goes back to 1961, and the family resemblance is fairly obvious. Under the hood of these old Couriers beat an engine that I have a bit of experience with, and lots of respect for.

The classic Mazda SOHC four dates back to the 1966 Luce, Mazda’s first foray into the world of modern sedans, and styled by Bertone. Its a car I’ve liked since first seeing one in Vienna in 1969. With a different grille, it could well be an Alfa, or at least a Fiat. The 1500 cc four had “square” bore and stroke of 78 mm each. That turned out to be a bit small, and it was soon stroked to 1600 cc, then 1800 cc, by which time it was swinging a healthy 94 mm (3.7″) stroke.

That’s getting into big-block V8 territory. The 1800 cc engine is what this generation B1800s and the Courier had, and a tough and torquey little mill it was. And just because we’re talking about it, the next gen Courier (1977) and Mazda B2000 got a 2 liter version of that motor, with the stroke taken all the way to 98 mm (3.86″). Grunt power from idle on, and nothing past 5000 rpm, unless it was hopped up. 72 (net) hp was its rating, less than the 74 hp the 1800 garnered, but but it felt like more, down low. But we’re not talking about those gen2 trucks, of which some of the later Couriers also had Ford’s Lima 2.3 L four installed: a preview of coming Ranger attractions.

No, let’s stick to the first gen, which ran from 1971 through 1976. And even in those years, there were some differences. The biggest being a couple of inches of precious length added to the cab, behind the rear window. You can see that, right? I do, it really jumps out at me. That happened in 1976, in anticipation of the slightly more revised gen2, which got a new front end to go with the longer cab. Well, it’s hardly a mega-cab, but every inch counts in these old-school Japanese trucks.

I find them visually appealing, but unbearably cramped, which is why I’m not fully accepted into Eugene’s social elite, even though I do have the chickens (and a Subaru). Big, old Ford trucks are a bit “north of the river”, if not even “east of the river”. Ask me if I care.

Actually, it’s not totally true; the kids in my neighborhood love my truck. Young women, especially: “cool truck, man!” If I were single, and could only keep one of my vehicles, I know which one it would be. As nice of shape as all old Couriers here inevitably are, the roof of this shell is showing the effects of thirty-five years of Oregon rainy winters. Time to re-roof. Or put a blue tarp on it, the budget solution to Oregon’s leaky roofs. Blue roofs are a common sight here, come late winter. Just for the hell of it, let’s see what’s inside there.

Jeez; someone’s not on the program. “Don’t you love the planet, man?” The way to tell the vintage of these old Couriers, other than the ’76 cab stretch, is to check out their tailgate lettering.

The 1972’s have “FORD COURIER” in big letters. The 1973’s spelled out “COURIER” in big letters, with a smaller “Ford” on the upper left. Starting with 1974, it changed to a big “FORD” and a small “Courier” on the lower right. The marketing executives at Ford had to justify their big salaries somehow.

That makes both the red and this green ones either ’74s or ’75s. Who needs VIN numbers? I know you do, otherwise you wouldn’t still be reading along.

You’re going to get a degree in Courierology by the time I’m done. Ready for the final? When I discovered these I really wanted one, as I was stuck with my 1976 ¾ ton Chevy pickup and its 13.5 mpg drain on my wallet. Previously, a friend bought a 1976 Toyota SR5 pickup and he was getting 28 mpg out of it. I thought, as gas was 50 cents a gallon and more at the time. I even drove one, but when I saw the Ford, I liked the lines of the vehicle much better. All in all, I kept my truck as I had higher aspirations on my mind, like engagement and ealry preparations for eventual marriage in 1977.

Still, all these years later, I still have a fondness for the Ford Courier, even if they all dissolved over the years. I bought a brand new 76 courier when I graduated from high school. I fell out of love in a real short time.The little truck looked great. The problem was, had no power and no fuel economy.It went back to the dealer several times,but I was lucky to get 15 mpg! Then there was the lack of room and comfort.I traded my dad for his 70 f 100.

Years later I was in a local shop where a mechanic was overhauling the same year truck, he commented that he had never seen such an engine. It wasnt designed for power or fuel economy. Love the styling of those Luces too – we got them new, but they were rare and it’s been a while since I saw once. Mirrors are probably not electric given its age; plus they look way too slender. But on many later Japanese domestic market cars (of which NZ is full of used examples), the ‘hockey stick’ mirrors are electrically adjustable just like door mounted ones. My ’92 C33 Nissan Laurel had hockey sticks on the wings, they were electric. They proved to have their uses too as they were absolutely superb for towing a trailer!

I think they look cool on old Japanese classics now too. My JDM Nissan brochure collection shows they were optional right into the late 90s – including on the JDM version of the Infiniti Q45. That “retirement home” isn’t in Portland, Paul, that’s just the dateline. It’s actually in Scio, down in the Willamette Valley farmland. In fact it looks closer to Eugene than Portland. When a chicken becomes a pet instead of a roaster, things change. Ever read Charlotte’s Web?

Dogs are food animals in some places. How about acre-sized perfectly fed and groomed lawns? Those suburbanites, they know how to play at being country gentlemen By the way, nice article! Those great little trucks keep marching, as long as the rust bug stays away. Here in Massachusetts, I remember seeing Couriers around back in the ’70s and ’80s, but they are all but extinct today. Before reading Paul’s article I knew absolutely nothing about different styling generations or how to tell different years apart.

I just knew that they were badge-engineered Mazdas that Ford sold for about a decade before introducing the domestic Ranger. Any Japanese pickup from the ’70s is a rare sight here; on those occasions when you do come across one, it will most likely be either a Toyota or a LUV. Oh, my goodness, the Magic Truck. Friends of mine had the green one with the cap (did they all come with the cap standard?) in the late seventies.

He was an artist, she a fellow psychology intern. I was just starting to work on stuff, so I was able to help them get it running well enough until they could have a burned valve diagnosed and get it running right (they were artists, not machine heads, god love them). After which we took it one early morning in October on a magical trip out Route 9, from Worcester to Pittsfield, where the husband had some of his paintings in a show. Oh, what a colorful ride through the Berkshires-just a perfect day. Capped off when we passed that Saab mechanic with the “Troll Crossing” sign up the road from his shop near Amherst.

The Magic Truck was slow, cramped, noisy and incredibly stiff riding by American standards, but the perfect vehicle that day. One of these was my first vehicle. (By the way, the roof extension was a mid-year ’76 change. Mine was a ’76 but did not have the extended roof!) I got it with 60k on the clock, drove it to 110k or so. Great vehicle to learn to drive a manual. (Dad picked me up at my work with it, and said, “Here, drive it home”. His knuckles must have been white, but he never flinched) It never stranded me, but boy it is true that they don’t make them like they used to: It was pretty rusty (Philly area), and it wandered a bit (ok, a lot!) on the highway (though that got better when I replaced the bias tires with radials and discovered that the previous owner had 2 different sized tires on the front (!) ) But most of the problems were with the carb.

An emissions control solenoid failed one summer halfway to WV, so it would backfire VERY loudly on deceleration.(That may have contributed to the loss of the gasket between the headers and the exhaust pipe. I never could one to last after that. IIRC one of the studs was shot?) The carb would freeze up if it was fairly cold and humid (i.e., snowstorm), but if you waited at idle for a few minutes it would be ok again. And it always started, even at 10-20 below, parked outside with no heater.

I finally had the carb rebuilt at 100k or so as it was running too rich, but it never was quite right again. It sat for a year outside before I sold it, but it still started right up. The size of the truck needn’t have any relation to the room allowed in the cab. Japanese pickups were cramped, because the typical Japanese was and is much smaller than the average American male. Those trucks were mostly designed for their domestic market and imported here as an afterthought. I had a Datsun King Cabfine truck, except for its susceptibility to rust.

And, plenty of room inside. I also borrowed a 1995 Ford F-100 for an afternoonthat was a standard cab; and I just plain DID NOT FIT. I would like to see smaller trucks available, tooand of course we will; CAFE will supply that. My avatar was a ’74 Courier. Loved that truck. Don’t recall if the Rube Goldberg air cleaner assembly had a summer or winter position as it was soon discarded in favor of a Weiand air cleaner to fit over the idle adjustment blocked-off Hitachi carb. Eventually put white RV spoke wheels with Remington RWL 70 series tires and a “turbo” exhaust (where I exploded two mufflers due to the backfire issues).

Pretty sharp truck; played and worked hard. Kept it five years and 80K miles (bought with 21K on the clock).

1974 Ford Courier Repair Manual

Took it with me the first time I moved to Hawaii. Started to rust from the roof on down and the weather stripping started to go which made the carpet moist and mildewy. (Central Oahu by the Ko’olau range – rainy).

Made numerous nighttime excursions through cane fields getting airborne on occasion. Sold it to buy my very first brand new car, a 1980 Toyota Tercel 2 door base model sedan. Four speed, rubber floor mats, fixed rear windows. 25-28 for my Courier (which DEFINITELY) needed a five speed. Early ’76’s did have the flat rear cab as did my ’74 – the mid year “B” trucks came out with that slight extension.

Only the Mazda “B” stuck with the 1600 through ’76; Couriers had the 1800. Archaic in it’s day as I remember non-self-adjustable drums all around and the manual choke. I still miss that truck. I don’t recall seeing these early models over here, it looks like the Japanese pickups from Ford/Mazda & Mitsubishi arrived around 1978-80. Prior to that we got the Toyota Stout and Isuzu Wasp, a pickup with Bellet front-half sheetmetal, that eventually evolved into the Colorado. Oh and the Datsun 1000/1200 pickups. The calls for the return of small pickups poses an interesting problem – to build them as per these vehicles is likely not economic nor necessary – these things would have a higher load capacity than a current base half-ton pickup.

The Fiat Strada or a chopped-roof Transit Connect is probably the best form factor, to pick up on available passenger car drivelines, plus the lower load bed possible would be incredibly useful. It seems that logic evaporates from some discussions on compact pickups, eg I caught a recent discussion where the following was raised as a problem “by the time you buy a V6 4×4 Ranger you can get an F150 for less!” Well yes, but not a 4×4 F150, so does that matter? In any case, keep it simple to keep it cheap. Logic evaporates whenever there’s any discussion of smaller vehicles. I’ve yet to see a small car thread which doesn’t have somewhere in the first ten comments some variation of “yes, but you could should get this other vehicle instead which is bigger”. There’s a lot of people who just cannot grasp that not everybody thinks bigger = better. The small cars that I want, I don’t want in spite of them being small.

I want them BECAUSE they’re small. By the same token, when I say I want a small work truck, I’m told to just get a stripper F-150 for the same money. I don’t want a stripper F-150.

They’re no smaller than the F-350 I have now, and I need something smaller because there are places I have to go where it just doesn’t fit. If I could afford to buy new I’d swoon for a pickup Transit Connect. Since I buy on the cheap, I’m probably going to get a small 4-door SUV (Sidekick, Rodeo, Pathfinder, etc) and strip out the back seats. I remember my uncle had one of these 1st-gen Couriers (in the ubiquitous mustard yellow) that my cousins and I decked out in tin cans, shaving cream, and streamers on his wedding day.

That was a sweet, sweet ride to drive away from a wedding reception in! He eventually replaced it with a brand-spanking-new ’82 Subaru Brat, a vehicle which thoroughly impressed the hell out of a 7-year-old me with it’s rearward-facing death seats. Slightly related, around that same era, my dad owned a 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup for about a year. He wound up trading it in for a pop-top VW camper van, as I had started swim team, and we needed a vehicle to travel around Oregon and California to swim meets in.

I remember thinking that the Mazda was pretty sporty for a small pickup (especially since it replaced his wheezy old ’68 Datsun pickup, which was showing its age). I found out much later how rare those Rotary Pickups really were (I believe only about 15,000 of them were produced). If you can find one of those tooling around Eugene– and I bet you probably can– it would make for an excellent CC. Looking back, I realize that I would kill for just about any of these vehicles that we had in my family when I was a kid (especially dad’s 1978 Porsche 924, but that’s another story for another day). It’s too bad they all ultimately got upgraded to Caravans and Explorers! I’m prejudiced because I had a Ford Courier.

I will say that Couriers and it’s Mazda B series that begat the Courier were THE toughest small trucks!! A little slower than the Toyotas and Datsuns, maybe, but more rugged – certainly more so than Mitsubishis, although the Isuzu-built Chevy LUVs gave all of it’s Japanese competition a run for it’s money. Very few small trucks of this vintage around here in Hawaii unless they’re meticulously restored examples. I did see a late 70s LUV in Pearl City still running about. VERY rusty.

But OK enough to pass Hawaii Safety Check. First experience with small trucks was my Scoutmaster, Deke Kitchen, driving a friend and I home from a camporee. He had a blue ’71 Lil Hustler (Datsun trucks as they were marketed then). First Couriers I saw were ’72s.

They were pretty popular in Northern California in the day. Mine was a ’74. Would have to adjust the valves every 20K or so; brake adjustments frequently (non-self adjusting drums on all four wheels). True Courier story. I used to like to take every vehicle I ever owned up through 1987 through the Oakville Grade.

Connects Oakville (Napa County) with Glen Ellen (Sonoma County). Up/down through the mountains, twisty and windy. Scrub Oaks, poison oak, mansinita trees, skunks, deer, wild turkeys and rattlesnakes. Typical Northern California hill terrain.

Kept on the tail of a Porsche 911 on the downhill grade going into Sonoma County! Said Porsche couldn’t shake me. But then came the straightaway. 68 net hp of Mazda smog-control choked power.

Need I say more. By Highway 12, the Porsche was but a memory. It IS true.

It takes more skill to drive a slow vehicle fast. My father had a ’75 or so El Camino that my uncle talked him out of. He replaced it with a ’76 Courier, baby blue as I recall. Dad soon painted it a nice dark blue and added a rollbar which really made it look sporty (well, kinda). I would always ride along in the middle of the seat (I was only 5 or 6 when he got it) and would shift the transmission for him (with Dad working the clutch, naturally). My father beat that little thing to death. In those oil crisis days he bought a woodstove and would load that thing with an unbelievable amount of wood, pretty much even with the roof.

I remember riding with him this one day, he drove it straight through a corn field at about 30 mph. Had to remove the grille to get rid of all the stalks! Somebody told him the engine would be shot by 50k.

Sure enough, it started using more oil than gas. He managed to trade it in on a ’75 Dodge D100; lucky for Dad they didn’t test drive the “mosquito sprayer” but just took his word for it that it was in good shape. He did get a nasty phone call later, though!

I haven’t seen another one in many years-rust here in MD got ’em, I guess. I have a 77 2.3 l courier I purchased for $800 in running condition. I’ve replaced the entire couch system and rebuilt the top end. I bought it wit 72,000 miles on in and it now has around 93,000. About $1200 total in the truck. I am only 26 so I love the attention I get from the older generation and kids lol. I would also like more info about it if possible.

My email contact is if anyone has some feed back. I’m currently tinkering with the carb. I have hesitation at low rpms buy once I hit top end it does fine. This gets confusing. In North America: –From 1972 to 1982, Ford and Mazda both sold small pickups of Mazda origin.

Ford’s was called the Courier. –From 1983 to 1993, Ford and Mazda each sold their own unrelated small pickups. The North American domestic-built small pickup that Ford introduced in 1983 was called the Ranger.

–From 1994 to 2009, Ford and Mazda both sold small pickups of North American Ford origin. Ford’s version continued to be called the Ranger.

Mazda stopped selling pickups in North America after 2009, and Ford stopped selling the Ranger after 2011. In other markets: –Starting in 1972, Ford and Mazda both sold small pickups of Mazda origin.

Ford’s was called the Courier. All of this continued to be true in these markets even after the North American Ranger was introduced in 1983 (the North American Ranger was not sold in other markets). –Starting in the late 1990s, Ford began phasing out the Courier name and branding its small pickups as the Ranger in non-North American markets.

They continued to be based off a Mazda design, which also continued to be sold by Mazda in these markets. This is all still true today. Note that for a time during the 1990s/2000s, Ford and Mazda shared a common design everywhere, and used the same model names everywhere, but the trucks sold in North America vs. Other markets were different. In North America they were of a North American Ford design that was not sold in other markets.

In other markets they were of a Mazda design that was not sold in North America. That’s what I miss about compact trucks of old, they’re rugged. For the most part, they provide all the power needed for the job at hand. My dad had a 1978 Toyota Hilux SR5 pickup truck. It had a 20R 2.2 litre 4 cylinder engine. It delivered 95 bhp and 122 lbs.-ft. It had a 5spd.

Manual shifting transmission. The seats themselves weren’t very comfortable, but the cab was big enough to fit me comfortably. It may not seem like much by today’s standards. But for a “compact” truck, it was perfect. I miss driving it. I cant agree that Couriers were bad on fuel or gutless. For what they were designed to do they were great.

Ive owned several over the 29 years ive been driving. My first car was a perfect 76 I bought for $300 in 1986. It belonged to a elderly neighbor who stopped driving a few years prior.

It had a whopping 12,XXX original miles and still sported the original tires and brakes. I drove it for 9 years and it finally died when i was hit by a speeding teen. It was still running well with 234,XXX miles. Got great fuel economy if not wound up to 65. At 55 it purred. I then built a 74 with a 5.0 HO and 5 speed out of a 91 mustang.

Spooky quick and left many of unsuspecting go fast guys in their high dollar hot rods in my rear view mirror. I loved the look on their face after the mauling by the little white hubcapped truck lit them up and put them out lol. I have a 1977 ford courier orange, and it’s not that bad. Aside from the tapping noise on the valves it’s a pretty decent truck.

I cannot seem to find any links or websites that can help me out in understanding under the hood. It’s a 1.8l 4 speed no muffler just cat. And as I checked the valve head,(cause I did the gasket ) I saw there were 2 cams. One int and one exh and that’s where my logic scrambles cause I’m not sure what kind of ohv it has. I must need the book, and I’m going to get it later today.

Long story short here’s my gal with the neighbors ford ranger.

OUT OF PRINT - This Haynes DIY repair and workshop manual, covers 1972-1982 Ford Courier pick-up trucks with 1.8L, 2.0L, and 2.3L engines. Book Excerpt: 1972-1982 Ford Courier 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.3L Engine Pickup Truck Repair Manual CARBURETION: FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS FUEL PUMP DISMANTLING, SERVICING AND REASSEMBLY. Remove the fuel pump as previously described. Index mark the air chamber (cover), valve chamber and body so that they can eventually be reassembled in the same positions. Remove the air chamber and valve chamber attaching screws. Remove the air chamber, the gasket and the valve chamber.

Remove the valve retainer attaching screws. Remove the retainers and valves from the valve chamber.

Remove the screws retaining the rear cover and then remove the cover. Disconnect the electrical lead from the switch.

Remove the screws which secure the switch assembly to the solenoid, remove the switch assembly. Remove the solenoid from the body by removing the attaching screws. Clean all the mechanical parts in a suitable cleaning solvent or gasoline. Inspect the air chamber, valve chamber and body for cracks and other damage. Inspect the inlet and outlet valves and obtain replacements if they do not function properly. Examine the diaphragm for damage and deterioration. Inspect the switch assembly contact points for wear, pitting and burning.

Light dressing with a suitable contact file or an oil stone is permitted, but if there is severe deterioration new points must be obtained. Before assembling the pump it is recommended that new gaskets are obtained since these are relatively cheap. CLUTCH CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER - DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLY. The clutch release cylinder does not normally require attention, and when dismantled it is recommended that all the rubber parts are replaced. It is therefore a good policy to obtain a repair kit which will contain all the necessary parts prior to starting this job. Having removed the release cylinder from the vehicle, clean the outside using a lint-free cloth.

Do not attempt to clean the release cylinder or any of its component parts with gasoline, kerosene or cleaning solvents. It is generally adequate to use new brake fluid for cleaning purposes but isopropyl alcohol or methylated spirits are also suitable.

Remove the dust book from the cylinder and take out the release rod. Remove the piston by tapping the release rod end of the cylinder sharply on a hard wooden surface. Alternatively, clean compressed air applied at the inlet connection can be used. Unscrew the bleed valve and take out the ball. Clean all the component parts (see paragraph 2) but discard the rubber cups. Examine the bore for wear, scoring and roughness; check the clearance of the piston in the bore and reject any parts which are unsatisfactory. Check that the bleed valve and inlet bores are clear, and that the bleed valve ball is in good condition.

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When reassembling, dip the internal parts of the release cylinder in clean, new brake fluid. Subject: 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 Ford Courier service and repair. ISBN-10: ISBN-13: 532 Haynes 36008.